KeithFebruary 2020
4th -29th February
Day 1
Flying from Larnaca, (Cyprus), via Moscow at late afternoon, it was an excellent flight, quiet and only 3 hours long, we touched down, and then proceeded to taxi down the runway, for a good 30 minutes, (not sure if the pilot got lost?), having then got onto the transport bus this then was another 20 minutes before we reached the terminal building.
Once inside we proceeded through the usual formalities, looking forward to an overnight stay in Moscow only to be told we weren’t allowed out of the airport without a visa!
Make sure you get your visa !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Day 2.
The day dragged in anticipation, but eventually we got the call for our flight to Bangkok.
Day 3.
Bangkok, Khaosan Road
The 9-hour flight passed quicker than expected, and the Aeroflot onboard entertainment helped greatly.
Arriving at Bangkok airport, slightly in better shape than anticipated, we promptly jumped into a taxi, to hotel Khaosan palace, on Khaosan Rd (1400Thb).
The hotel was just right, perfect location for exploring Khaosan Road, and Bangkok, rooms were large and clean, overall the hotel was a bit run down, but perfectly fine for us.
We arrived at 10am and no sooner had we arrived it was time for a foot massage and cocktails.
we then crashed til late afternoon. slightly refreshed, we surfaced and went out for a wander, street food and a drink.
Khaosan Road became infamous with travellers in the 60.s, it is still popular with tourists from all over the world, backpackers and holiday makers alike, there are various accommodation options, from budget upwards, it is a great place to enjoy the night, very busy, with street stalls, bars, and restaurants, the food is great, and if you can find a spare seat its a great place to sit and people watch.
Day 4.
Deciding to chance a walk to the nearest tourist site (Grand palace), we were quickly approached by various gentlemen touting for business on their Tuk tuks, we then got caught up in the Thai gem scam…..(for details please leave a comment)
Chinatown
Caught the local taxi boat for 15 Thb each to Chinatown, great little trip along the river.
From the boat landing, it was a bit of a stroll so we caught a Tuk tuk, and were taken to a great little restaurant overlooking the river, after a lovely dinner we proceeded to walk to the main road running through Chinatown.
https://youtu.be/YllzQygQj_c video of river taxi to Chinatown
Day 5.
Saturday
(10th February)
Bus trip hop on hop off, we used the elephant bus, (84Thb) booked online the night before (strongly recommended), we took a tuk tuk to pick up tickets, which is by the Mahanakhon Skywalk Centre in Bangkok,
The building is amazing, so whilst waiting for the bus, we decided to do the Skywalk at the hotel, it’s one of the latest attractions in Bangkok, 310 meters high and a glass walk on floor,
We opted for the full bus tour around the city with English commentary, well worth the time and money, very informative and you get to see most of the main sites and temples.
Day 7
Monday (10th February)
Bangkok to Pattaya
Checked out of hotel, bartered with a tuk tuk (200 Thb) for lift to bus stop, had an exhilarating ride with “Panong Hamilton”, never mind Monaco this was street racing at its best.
For a large bus company nobody seemed to know where the bus stop was located, we eventually spotted one of the coaches and found it.
Be careful with the tuk tuk drivers, if you haven’t got gps on your phone, they tend not to drop you in the vicinity of where you want to go not the exact location.
The mini van was amazing, and pimped up like a hen nights ride, the driver although a little grumpy got us to Pattaya in good time, 12go Asia (350 Thb) each from Bangkok to Pattaya 9.30-12 midday, got in at 11.20. Approx 6.5 miles.
From the drop off at the bus stop, we climbed into a Toyota Land Cruiser, very nice taxi, he charged us 200 Thb, and dropped us right outside the Grand hotel, Walking street.
Fantastic location and would recommend anyone to stay here, again not 5 star luxury but ample for what you need, nice spacious room with a sea view, nice en-suite bathroom, 60” tv with Netflix, mini bar complimentary water, and use of the pool in the sister hotel, breakfast was included, basic but adequate.
Having checked in and dropped our baggage we went looking for lunch, it didn’t take long, we walked maybe 50m (way to far), and stumbled across the Pattaya beach bar, fantastic views and location, ,a busy place, with a steady stream of customers, a varied menu but mostly Thai dishes.
I must admit it was delicious, so went back for more in the evening, average cost of a dish approx 250-300 Thb, the service was excellent, the only drawback in the evening was the lighting, very dimly lit, couldn’t tell the eels from the spaghetti……..
Day 8
Tuesday 11th February
And relax
Breakfast was adequate, a buffet style, with a mix of European and Thai, after 10 cups of revitalising coffee we headed for the rooftop pool, (located in the sister hotel W14, about 20m from Grand Hotel) and a relaxing afternoon,
Evening time, we ventured out to the “Wild West” of Walking street, a stroll up and down, and then settled on a more conventional style modern restaurant Aptly named “The Kitchen” again super food and service.
Walking street, is again an iconic street with tourists, a mixture of bars, night clubs, restaurants, and the famous go go “girls”.
A must visit place if you are in the area, day or night, it is busy, loud and just enjoyable to pass the time, people of all ages and all walks of life come here, we had a great time, people watching.
Day 9
Wednesday (12th February)
Another travel day, breakfast at the Grand Hotel, and checkout, we grabbed a large multi passenger tuk tuk, he charged us 200Thb for an exclusive ride to Pattaya North bus station. The bus was waiting and although our (!2go) voucher said 16.00 we actually left at 15.30.
The bus station was easy to find and quite large, there are numerous shops to buy water etc
A large screen display shows bus destinations and times.
Although a slightly older bus, it was extremely comfortable with plenty of leg room, air con, and reclining seats. We made good time and were half an hour early arriving at Mo chit bus station, this was a bit out of the way and the area was somewhat seedy, a cohort of taxi drivers struggled for our attention and again we were back in the Hussle and bustle of Bangkok.
Day 10
13th February
Don Muang Hotel one night THB 716
Handy for the airport, everything adequate, breakfast was a bit crazy!!!
Private transport to Don Muang airport very good 100Thb
Flight Bangkok to Udon Thani
Udon Thani
Checked in to Tanita lagoon resort, a series of chalets on what appears to be a man made lake, “breakfast” was served on our patio and was basic, but edible, had a wander around the resort not much there and pools closed for maintenance.
We were invited to try the sister resort, this again was peaceful and quiet but very nice, again it appeared to be a man made lake, with a food area, and hammocks, our lift waited for us to go back return trip 100Thb.
In the evening we decided to go to Udon Thani night market, a good 20 minute drive cost 200Thb and the driver gave us a phone number for return journey, again tried the street food, but at a market stall, and once again delicious and cheap.
Strolled through the market aimlessly, its a vast place and there is everything you could possibly want here, food, clothes, electricals, household, I decided to enquire about a SIM card, but for some strange reason i needed my passport?
Day 11
14th February
A lazy day relaxing by the lagoon, evening meal at the resort adequate, cheap, and tasty.
Day 12
15th February
Vientiane
Breakfast, pack up and ship out, a free lift to the airport was much appreciated.
We then boarded our minivan, for the 60 min drive to the border at the Thai-Lao, friendship bridge.
Opened in 1994 and funded by Australia, it was built as a development aid for Laos.
A pleasant journey, but not much to see.
Here we handed in departure cards, then passport control and bought tickets for the public bus (which takes you across the bridge), 20Thb each, the crossing is approx 2Km and takes about 5 mins.
Again on the Laos side passport control, an entry visa form and €30 each (600,000 Lak), we were met by our minivan driver, who promptly took us to our accomodation, Vientiane luxury hotel, (2 nights $59).
No trouble finding this one, and the journey was comfortable, we had the minivan to ourselves, the hotel was slightly off the main road, down a little side street, but we never felt uneasy with any of the locations, or going out at night etc,
We checked in to a grumpy receptionist, and hastily dropped our bags in the room, a quick room scan and off to the pool, room was large, comfortable clean nice shower room a tv with some English channels be it all the picture was just watchable.
We were on the 7th floor so after a shedfull of beer, the lift was a must.
We ventured to the pool, and had to use our room towels, as no pool towels were provided, the pool was indoors but not heated and as no sun got to it the water temperature was freezing.
We ventured through some back streets, and headed for a small market, which again had a variety of street foods, (a lot of sausage but each region having its own slight variation on ingredients), all looking delicious.
Day 13
16th February
Headed down for buffet style breakfast, if you don’t like rice or noodles not much choice really, usual selection of eggs scrambled, fried or omelette, again adequate and edible.
Ventured out for our walk tour, wat….presidential palace, market, wat that? Etc
Back to hotel shower change and out for evening meal, found a shabby backstreet curry house, very basic, but very friendly, ordered two beers, two starters, two curries, rice chips two bottles of water, total came to €15.80 (158000 Lak) food was great, tasty and fresh all home cooked.
Great relaxing evening.
Day 14
17th February
Vientiane-Vang Vieng
Tuk tuk to bus tour office, a coach this time, a little rundown but air con and comfortable.
The journey was ok and roads were good we left at midday and arrived at Vang Vieng approx 5pm, we were dropped at a parking area in what seemed the middle of nowhere, but as usual the tuk tuk flies were there.
20000 Lak got us to the Faraway suites hotel and it did seem a little far away.
We stumbled into a bar bakery which sold Bacardi and then stumbled out, and that was the end of that, later in the evening, the good wife ventured out, and scouted some sausage, and fried pork from the street food guys, and again delicious.
Day 15
18th February
Vang Vieng-Luang prabang
Usual routine, shower, pack, breakfast, check out, minivan pick up from hotel perfect, then came the reality,
The minivan was a full house, 13 of us crammed in for the 5 hour journey from hell, over mountains and roads barely drivable, Tracy’s worst nightmare…!
Arrived at Luang Prabang about 5pm we were dropped not far from the guesthouse so decided to walk it, 10 mins later we were at the Sian mark guesthouse, a quaint little place set back from the rd, with a nice lady looking after the place, check in, drop off, beer.
Our reason for coming here, was to take the Mekong River (The Mekong River is one of the world’s great rivers. Covering a distance of nearly 5,000 km from its source on the Tibetan Plateau in China to the Mekong Delta, the river flows through six countries: China, Myanmar, Thailand, Lao PDR, Cambodia and Viet Nam). for two days, and arrive in Northern Laos, from here cross back into Thailand, we wanted to experience some of the more isolated areas on the river, and just the river itself.
We needed tickets for the boat trip, so decided to head for the river, 2 mins down the rd, we grabbed a tuk tuk, after some miscommunication, we arrived at a point on the river, and spoke to some other drivers, apparently we needed to go to a place 10Km upriver and get tickets there!
We bartered with a driver, to pick us up the following morning at 7am from the guesthouse and take us to this place, feeling a little more relieved at finding our next stop we decided to have lunch,
Fortunately whilst looking for restaurants, we stumbled across a tour operator, who booked our 2 day river journey, which included pick up from our hotel, we went back to look for the tuk tuk driver we had booked with but he had probably gone home to sleep ready for his early morning and days wages €7 (700000 Lak).
We headed back on another tuk tuk, deciding to eat by our guesthouse, the drive back took us through the centre which was lively, vibrant with plenty going on, bars and eateries everywhere. Dinner, beer, early night.
Day 16
19th February
A good nights sleep, cut short by the cockerels, but we had an early morning anyway, our original pre arranged driver turned up so we apologised and paid him off with 20000 Lak, we grabbed a quick coffee from the lady at the guesthouse and sure enough at 7.30 am our driver turned up.
We had a chap called Robin already on board, a Swiss chap who we had a quick chat with.
A 25 minute drive, got us to the departure point for the longboats, our driver went in and got our tickets and came out and pointed at our boat, this was the start of our Mekong river “cruise”. 😂
Alighting down some steep steps to the boat, we walked the plank, and boarded, it was about half full with all the locals at the front, the seating was old car seats strapped to bits of 3 x 2 to stop them tipping, these were movable as nothing was bolted down.
We left pretty much on time, and settled down to a relaxing day, the first couple of hours were freezing, not realising the sun wouldn’t be up, and obviously there was a cool breeze from the river, a hoody or blanket would have been nice,
However once the sun rose, it was more than warm enough.
We had some polite conversation with the other passengers, but not much, many photos were taken of cattle, goats, and local villages along the banks,
The scenery was very rugged, with vast rock faces climbing out of the river, and rock islands to be navigated in the river, a few “rapid” spots made the journey a little exciting, but after a few hours it became the usual and most people settled to try to sleep.
We arrived at Pak Beng at approx 18.00, after 9 hours on the river, not what we were expecting, after the driver of the boat squeezed us in to our berth (with a shoe horn) we then had to navigate the plank, two boards approx 8 inches wide, and very flexible, were wedged between the side of the boat, and some rocks,
I then became a 22 stone Olga Korbut……….😂😂😂😂 with some jockey like figures, either side of me for stability, I pretty much new, if I fell it would be a wipe out.
Our bags had been handed over so we followed the jockeys up the steep bank, some dragging Tracy regardless of what speed she wanted to do, at the top she gave them the equivalent of 0.20e and was returned a look of disgust.
We were left with a tuk tuk driver, who told us it was too far for us to walk to our guesthouse, so we jumped in the back of his cattle wagon, he took us 200 meters around the corner, and said too pay him what we thought, so we gave him 20000 Lak.
We were greeted by an elderly gentleman sat on a chair, he gave us a key and ushered us into a room, next to the main entrance, it was basic but adequate, a large double bed and a private shower room for 10000 Lak we couldn’t complain for one night,
It was dark, and getting late, so we ventured out for some food, not having much cash left I went in search of an ATM. We were told there was one about 5 mins walk, so I headed off leaving Tracy to have a cold beer and calm down after her mountain goat experience getting off the boat.
I found the ATMs, neither were working, don’t think they had ever heard of euros, so we were stuck, all the shops and eateries and guesthouse were centred around the steep main road leading away from the river.
Coming back from the ATMs, I asked in a few if they could change money or take cards and drew a blank, finding Tracy nestled in her new found family restaurant, I told her of my saga, we then deliberated on what to do.
The lad working in the restaurant spoke relatively good English, we explained our predicament and lo and behold the lady owner offered to exchange our Thb for Lak, so we were fed and watered that evening, after a brief lesson in Tracy measure, drink pouring we were sorted.
A slow bimble back to the digs and an early night.
Day 17
20th February
The following morning was an early start, if you wanted to catch the elephants bathing, across the river, we opened the door to the room, and were on the veranda,
Some instant coffee was on offer, (better than nothing), so we sat and waited.
First the rider appeared, and then a lonely elephant made his way down the sandbank to the river, he then washed and drank, another appeared after 10 mins or so, we watched for a good 30 mins until they made there way into the river to bathe, it was then time for us to make our way back to the boat.
On arrival at the “pier” we had to change boats as the one we arrived on didn’t go any further up river so after a brief panic we realised we were on the right boat and the other passengers from the day before started to embark.
Another relaxing long day on the river however this time a lot more chatter amongst the travellers and a lot more of a relaxed atmosphere.
The end of the journey was greatly anticipated, it had been a long 2 days and everyone was glad to see the end in sight.
However, we soon realised this was yet another strange operation, we were taken some way past the bridge crossing only to be met by some haggling drivers in order to take us back to the bridge.
The bridge crossing was a fairly relaxed affair with a quick show of passports and a 5 min bus journey to the other side, we were met by 2 ladies offering the only transport available, having chatted with the other travellers we realised we were all going to Chiang Rai and managed to secure a 9 seater mini bus at a cost of (2500 Thb).
40 mins later and we were at our destination
We said our farewells to the rest of the group, but one chap in particular (Matin) we invited for a quick beer, an interesting chap with a history in fashion, we had a quick chat and made our way to the hotel for the night,
The hop inn, having checked in we went off to find a lovely little café called the Midnight library, a quaint little place and the food was excellent (more curry), back to the room for a good nights sleep,
Refreshed we awoke and went to find breakfast, best one we had had so far from a little photography shop across the rd from where we were staying,
Booked a taxi to the airport, checked out and off back to Bangkok.
On landing we had to change airports from Bangkok (BKK) to SVO (Suvarnabhumi Airport), a good 40-90 minute transfer depending on traffic, however, on speaking to a lovely couple, on the minibus to Chang Rai, they informed us there was a free shuttle bus between airports, as long as you could prove your flight,
We took the free shuttle bus and arrived at SVO approx 30 mins later, we then negotiated a taxi (400 Thb) to the Smile hotel (Thb) it was a good 25 min walk from the airport so well worth it to us.
On arrival it was a boutique hotel, tall and narrow, we were on the 1st floor, so up a few flights of very narrow stairs, the room itself was very nice, and all recently refurbished, a little cramped to get into the bathroom but all very adequate.
We ate locally, again not 100% what we were getting, but ended up with the spicy curry, veg, and noodles it was all very palatable, and the place itself was quite entertaining, with what appeared to be many locals.
I thought I would just double check the flight times to set my alarm……………
Day 18
21st February
Bangkok-Surat Thani
One last check on transport, from Surat Thani airport to our hotel revealed a 90 minute transfer time, (this couldn’t be right), double checking, I realised that although the hotel was listed as surat thani district it was nowhere near this airport and the nearest airport was Chumphon.
I hastily checked times, and availability, and booked us on the next available flight which was 06.30 that morning.
Allowing for transfer, and an hour before take off, we needed to leave at 04.30, it was 03.30 now so I decided not to sleep at all, and wake the “beast” in an hour.
I tried to wake Tracy, and was surprised at how quickly, she reacted to my news, of my cockup and travel issues, she leapt out of bed, and was ready within minutes, we checked out as there was a lady on the bar downstairs we explained our predicament and she said she would hail us a taxi (100Thb locals price!)
We arrived in good time, and proceeded to the check in desk, Tracy did the honours, and I was hastily called over to sort a discrepancy?
Apparently in my haste, I had booked Tracy in as “T Llewellyn”, not “Tracy Llewellyn” as it states on her passport.
After trying to explain to the check in guy, that this was merely a typo, and that it was clearly the same person, he refused to let Tracy on the flight, the alternative was to cancel her ticket and rebook it in her full name…great,
So as this was our only choice this is what happened at a cost of (5000 Thb).
The flight to Chumphon was an hour we took off at 06.30 a nice flight on a little twin engine local service, on arrival there were very little security checks, so cleared the airport in about 5 mins,
outside was a kiosk running all the local transport, we booked 2 tickets on the minibus which turned out to be organised chaos.
Too many people for the minibuses, so after changing bus twice, we were then ushered to our own private taxi woohoo, it was approx. a 30 minute drive to the hotel,
On arrival we weren’t disappointed, it was a beatiful, peaceful, setting right on the beach, we checked in and sat in reception to wait for our room to be prepared.
Whilst waiting, we decided to upgrade to a bungalow, best move we made, it was excellent, a huge room, with a large balcony, en suite bathroom plus outdoor, walk in shower room,
Buffet breakfast was included, this was excellent, with a large choice of food and drinks.
Nice size pool, with a slight lack of sunbeds, but wasn’t a huge issue, there was a hotel restaurant on the beach front, this was also excellent, and reasonably priced.
First night, we ate at the hotel restaurant, it was very good, and the service was excellent.
As we were a bit worse for wear, having had afternoon drinks, with some new found “Canadian friends”, we ordered starters, which were very filling, and very nice, then decided to have the rest delivered to our bungalow, an exceptional service, and very nice to eat in your own company.
2nd night, we ventured a bit further, and discovered a local bar called the Curry Shack@Crooked Palm, it was a very quiet little bar, with some expat locals, enjoying a game of pool and a beer, we decided to try the homemade expat food, (enough curry for one trip), pie and mash, and burger and chips, both very nice, and a welcome break from the Thai cuisine.
Day 22
26th February
Arrived at hotel quite late, checked in to a lovely reception, then we were taken to the “servants quarters”, good job it was only a nights stay for the airport….
As we were late, the market, and most of the other eateries in the area were finished, we made do with some pizza cooked in a Russell hobbs electric oven…..lovely.
We slept well, even though the aircon was spewing out water condensation, (which sounded similar to Chinese water torture).
Breakfast was good, the usual buffet style stuff, eggs etc, but a lovely setting overlooking the river and the hotel pool, checkout, and off to the airport, courtesy of the hotel shuttlebus.
At the airport, we gathered our winter belongings from the luggage company (120e), then checked in, and waited for our departing flight back to Moscow.
A slightly cramped flight but manageable and 8 hours later, we were back in Moscow airport, we were crafty this time around, and had pre-booked our hotel for 24 hours duration, not so bad when you have a base to work from.
The time passed relatively quickly, and we were soon bedding down for the night, the following day was very uneventful, and we arrived in Larnaca, bang on time to be greeted by a couple of mad kids.
Home at last
The End.
(for now)…………
Link to photo album https://photos.app.goo.gl/rLNTXzgYVhy1BeBz5
